Les Escoumins Québec dive guide
// June 22nd, 2010 // USA Dive Guide
A tiny, quaint French-Canadian village laid out along a half-moon of rocky seacoast, Les Escoumins might seem at first merely a hideout for honeymooners and thieves. But this diminutive settlement on the banks of the tidal St. Lawrence River is one of the Northeast’s best-kept diving secrets.
What draws divers in the know to Les Escoumins is spectacular beach diving, like the 40-foot rock wall appropriately called The Dock or The Wharf because it’s located adjacent to the town pier. The wall is a swaying palette of color: red, orange, yellow and white northern red anemone clusters extending their hungry tentacles into the constant current, which is strong enough to feed the anemones but not too strong to keep divers from enjoying a relaxed visit. Silver-spotted anemones join in the dance, reaching into the drift with delicate white tentacles. Wherever anemones have not settled, you can find a number of sponge species, most notably the bumpy yellow mounds of warty sponges and the gray-brown or purplish spikes of finger sponges.
Swimming, walking and crawling among these sessile creatures are brilliantly colored Greenland shrimp and the well-camouflaged Montague’s shrimp and polar shrimp. The most common nudibranchs in these waters are the red-gilled and salmon-gilled, both a little over an inch in length and graceful swimmers. Beyond the wall, in about 90 feet of water, you can explore the small nameless wreck of an old fishing boat. The ribs and frame are all that remain, but the dilapidated craft is home to Acadian redfish (or rosefish) and, in the winter, snow crabs boasting eight-inch carapaces and legs many times longer.
La Crique is a pleasant granite slope into the water where at 30 feet you can find foot-long scarlet soles, bright-red creatures straining the current for food with multi-tentacled arms, while sea stars and urchins cluster on the rocks. Thirty feet deeper, you can find vase-shaped chalice sponges, and a striking mix of northern red, red stomphia and knobby anemones.
The third easy-access site is L’Anse à La Barque, a small cove that is less than a five-minute walk from parking. Like La Crique, the rocks at L’Anse à La Barque slope slowly into deep water. Here, urchins, sea stars, shrimps, crabs and frilled anemones thrive. Look for the polar sea star, a voracious predator that can reach into the mucky substrate and extract clams from below the surface. L’Anse à La Barque is also an especially good place to find toothy Atlantic wolffish, staring at divers from rocky crevices.
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